Let's Bring Retro Cocktail Parties Back

Starting with this melon and prawn cocktail.

These guys are ready to party.

In the modern era, the casual cocktail party has become something of a flex. Hosts might serve expensive olives next to Cool Ranch Doritos in mismatched bowls, with most of their effort going toward arranging a cheese plate. It’s the culinary equivalent of the natural makeup look or a designer tote bag. Gone are the days of the meticulously crafted hors d'oeuvre, meant to be oohed and aahed over after disappearing in one bite.

This new genre of party is definitely easier to plan, and as I guest I’m never mad about pairing junk food with a fancy drink. But there’s something charming about the cocktail parties of yesteryear. While the fussy appetizers served in the 1960s and ‘70s didn’t necessarily taste better than what’s popular today, taste wasn’t always the main concern. A spread of perfectly manicured bites that took days to prepare doubled as part of the decor. Just look at this melon and prawn concoction and tell me it doesn’t make an adorable party accessory.

This week’s recipe comes from the 1968 cookbook Cooking for Compliments. It takes a basic dish—seafood salad—and gussies it up by serving it in honeydew melon slices garnished with two head-on prawns. If you’re feeling ambitious, the book also includes illustrated directions for slicing the melon into a whimsical zig zag pattern.

An impressive party trick.

Am I entranced by the image at the top of the page? Absolutely. Do I want to taste the actual dish? Not so much. It doesn’t help that the recipe lacks instructions for how it should be consumed. I think I would settle for putting one on my plate and having two shrimpy companions to keep me company throughout the night.

For all the time I spend cooking, I invest little creative energy into thinking about presentation. I imagine there’s a meditative quality in carefully balancing prawns on melon slices—as long as you’re not doing it minutes before your guests arrive. And if you’re putting effort into dressing up and making your home look nice, shouldn’t your appetizer spread look equally as showstopping? I don’t see this brand of style-over-substance cuisine ever coming back in full force, but if you’re thinking about serving a retro menu at your next gathering, this recipe is a great starting point. Best served with your favorite disco playlist.

Melon and Prawn Cocktail

Serves: six

1 large honeydew melon
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Few unpeeled prawns
PRAWN MAYONNAISE:
1/2 teaspoon caster sugar
Pinch each of salt, freshly ground black pepper, and dry mustard
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 pint pure olive oil, corn oil, or ground-nut oil
1/4 pint double cream
4 oz. peeled prawns

Cut the melon into six slices, discard the seeds, and sprinkle with a little lemon juice, if liked. Place spoonfuls of prawn mayonnaise into hollows and decorate each slice with two unpeeled prawns.
TO PREPARE MAYONNAISE: Add caster sugar, salt, black pepper, and dry mustard to the egg yolk in a bowl. Add the lemon juice and mix thoroughly. Very gradually add the oil, drop by drop, beating well after each addition until all the oil has been used. Lightly whip the cream and fold into the mayonnaise together with the prawns. Check seasoning. Use at once.